KHAOSARN ROAD

The centre of the backpackers' universe is bursting with fun, tacky and useful things to blow your baht on. Its ubiquitous travel shops can arrange your outward journey, whether it be flights, trains or bus tickets. The many tailors will happily whip you up a sharp suit ready for when you arrive back from the islands.

A must for the beach is a gripping read, and fortunately several of the city's best second hand-book shops are here. Modern essentials aren't neglected either: internet cafes, chemists, convenience stores, banks and monetary exchanges abound.

More eclectic and exciting are the market stalls. It only takes a few minutes of tricky maneuvering Khaosarn Road's narrow, obstacle strewn pavements to realise that every last inch of space is dedicated to small commerce. Tightly packed stalls line the walk-ways on either side, and sell pretty much anything that can fit inside a backpack: knock-off t-shirts, sandals, shorts, trainers, fisherman's pants, sunglasses, bikinis, jewellery, textiles, pirate music CDs and DVDs, old Thai movie posters, and more.

Colourful street vendors also do the rounds, most of them from Northern Hill Tribes. This friendly but persistent breed traipses up and down, selling things like hammocks, croaking ornamental frogs and ethnic jewellery. As always when buying at markets in Bangkok, remember to bargain. But don't argue over a few measly baht. Meet them somewhere in the middle and you'll both part with your dignity in tact.